Organic Cotton vs Conventional Cotton

The word cotton is derived from the Arabic word “al-quatan”. No one knows how old the cotton plant is. One of the first archeological discoveries of cotton usage in the world is located in Pakistan at Mohenjo Daro. This site is over 5,000 years old.

In conversations, “natural clothing” is sometimes used to refer to organic clothing because the clothing is completely natural and was not grown with any toxic chemicals nor manufactured using toxic chemicals. But natural fiber clothing simply refers to clothing made from fibers found in nature, such as cotton, wool or hemp, which may not be grown or manufactured under conditions which would allow them to be certified as organic.

Natural fibers fall into three main groups: vegetable fibers which come from plants; protein fibers, which come from the wool and hair of animals; and the strong elastic fibrous secretion of silkworm larvae in cocoons which is used to create silk. The most common natural fibers used to make clothing are cotton, hemp, ramie, linen, tencel, wool, and silk.

Cotton evokes images of white, fluffy purity and many people think of cotton as being a natural, pure fabric. Due to its unique fiber structure which can absorb up to 27 times its own weight in water, cotton breathes and helps remove body moisture by absorbing it and wicking it away from the skin.

Conventional Cotton
Conventional cotton is often promoted as a 'natural' product; however, it is one of the most heavily sprayed crops, utilizing more than 25% of all the insecticides in the world, yet it is farmed on only 3% of the world's farmland. In the USA alone, an estimated 800 million pounds of pesticides are used on cotton each year. In addition, conventional cotton textile manufacturing involves bleaches, formaldehyde, and other chemical finishes, as well as other chemical processes. Almost 1/3 pound of synthetic chemicals is utilized for each pound of conventional cotton. Traces of these chemicals remain in the finished product, even after repeat washings. The chemicals used to grow conventional cotton may have serious adverse effects on human health and the environment.

Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is cotton that has been grown for at least three years without chemical pesticides, defoliants, or fertilizers. Fertilizers that are used include compost, manure, naturally derived mineral, plant fertilizers and crop rotation. Insect controls involve the use of beneficial insects and natural pesticides certified for organic crops. Organic cotton is also processed without oils, chemicals, and pesticides.
Organic is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers, and build biologically diverse agriculture.

Processing Seed to Apparel
There is a general four-step process to turn a seed into apparel.
1) Planting and growing
2) Harvesting
3) Cleaning of the cotton boll,
4) Manufacturing

Step 1: Planting and Growing Conventionally grown cotton
Just 2.4% of the world's arable land is planted with cotton yet it accounts for 25% of the world's insecticide market and 11% of global pesticides sales, making it the most pesticide-intensive crop grown on the planet. The pesticides used by farmers not only kill cotton pests but also decimate populations of beneficial insects such as ladybugs and parasitic wasps. Pesticides not only disrupt the balance of nature in the field, but also harm people who come in contact with them. According to the Organic Consumers Association, the use of pesticides, which includes insecticides, herbicides and fungicides, for conventional cotton production has created serious problems for human health and the environment in all cotton-growing regions worldwide. Over 500 species of insects, 180 weeds and 150 fungi have developed resistance to the chemicals used to kill them off.

Organically grown cotton Working with rather than against nature is the guiding principle behind organic farming. Organic farmers use biologically-based rather than chemically dependent growing systems to raise crops. Organic cotton is now being grown in more than 18 countries worldwide. Organic Farming starts with healthy soil. Compost, efficient nutrient recycling, frequent crop rotations and cover crops replace synthetic fertilizers to keep the soil healthy and productive.

Organic Farmers have many options to control weeds including: hoes and other mechanical weeding implements, crop rotations, planting several crops together (intercropping) and even adjusting the planting dates and densities of their crops. To control pests, organic farmers may use beneficial predator insects, crop rotations, intercropping, and biological
pesticides.

Step 2: Harvesting Conventionally Harvested Cotton
After the toxic debacle of the growing season, the chemical woes only continue. During harvesting, herbicides are used to defoliate cotton plants to make picking easier. The global consequences are that chemicals pollute ground water and rivers with potentially carcinogenic compounds. Large harvesting machinery compacts the ground reducing soil productivity.

Organic Harvested Cotton
Organic cotton is often hand picked, especially in developing countries, without the use of defoliants, machinery, or chemicals. Hand picking also means less waste.

Step 3: Cleaning & Ginning
Cotton is also an important food source for humans and animals. Cotton is comprised of 40% fiber and 60% seed by weight. Once separated in the gin, the fibers go to textile mills, while the seed and various ginning byproducts are used for animal feed and for human food, mostly in the form of cottonseed oil. Cottonseed, which is rich in oil and high in protein, is a common ingredient in cookies, potato chips, salad dressings, baked goods, and other processed foods. With conventionally grown cotton, the pesticide residues from the cottonseeds concentrate in the fatty tissues of these animals, and end up in meat and dairy products. Organically grown cotton can be used to produce organic food products for people and animals.
Organic cotton is important not just in the clothing chain but also in the food chain.

Step 4: Manufacturing – Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Dying, & Finishing Conventionally Manufactured Cotton
Conventionally manufactured cotton must be chemically processed to become the soft fiber that consumers love. Only in the spinning process where cotton fibers are spun into yarn is cotton untouched by chemicals or oils. After spinning, the yarn receives a polyvinyl alcohol sizing to make the yarn easier to weave. After weaving, the fabric is then bleached either with hydrogen peroxide or chlorine. The sizing is then removed from the fabric with a detergent. Next, it is washed or “scoured” with sodium hydroxide. Finally, it is piece-dyed, often with formaldehyde-fixing agents.

An additional washing is needed to attempt to remove the formaldehydefixing agents. The last step is finishing and this is where many chemical sensitivity problems begin. A urea-formaldehyde product which cross-links molecules is routinely applied to reduce shrinkage and wrinkling.

Manufacturing organic cotton
At each manufacturing step, organic clothing manufacturers do not add petroleum scours, silicon waxes, formaldehyde, anti-wrinkling agents, chlorine bleaches, or other unauthentic materials. Natural alternatives such as natural spinning oils that biodegrade easily are used to facilitate spinning; potato starch is used for sizing; hydrogen peroxide is used for bleaching; organic color grown cottons and low-impact dyes and earth clays are used for coloration; and natural vegetable and mineral inks and binders are used for printing on organic cotton fabric. These natural alternatives are used to reduce and eliminate the toxic consequences found in conventional cotton fabric manufacturing.

Organic Cotton Products
Apparel companies are developing programs that either use 100 percent organically grown cotton, or blend small percentages of organic cotton with conventional cotton in their products. There are a number of companies driving the expanded use of domestic and international organic cotton.
As a result of consumer interest, organic cotton fiber is used in everything from personal care items (sanitary products, make-up removal pads, cotton puffs and ear swabs), to home furnishings (towels, bathrobes, sheets, blankets, bedding), children's products (toys, diapers), clothes of all kinds and styles (whether for lounging, sports or the workplace), and even stationery and note cards. In addition, organic cottonseed is used for animal feed, and organic cottonseed oil is used in a variety of food products, including cookies and chips.